How to Build a Paver Walkway in 5 Easy-to-Follow Steps

Achieving an impressive entrance to your property involves more than planting a couple of flowers and calling it a day. A paver walkway might do the trick, though. It’s quick to install, safe to navigate, and the perfect transition between your door and outdoor space.

And the good news? You don’t have to spend thousands of dollars and time creating one. Our specialized hardscaping contractors in Durham, NC, explain how to build a paver walkway in 5 simple steps, so you can turn a dull space into a head-turning path over a single weekend. Ready to elevate your backyard or porch? Continue reading!

Of course, you cannot begin your DIY paver walkway empty-handed. First things first, what will you need to avoid a headache, multiple trips to the hardware store, and unnecessarily wasting your budget? Below is every material and tool you might require:

Tools

• Measuring tape & graph paper (or garden hose) for layout
• Flat shovel and square-edge spade
• Hand tamper or plate compactor (you can rent this one)
• Wheelbarrow and metal rake
• Level or 4-foot straight board
• Rubber mallet
• Push broom & garden hose

Materials

• String lines & stakes
• Marking paint
• Landscape fabric (optional for weed suppression)
• 4–6 in. of paver base (gravel or limestone screenings)
• 1 in. of bedding sand (concrete sand or stone dust)
• Concrete, clay, or natural-stone pavers
• Polymeric jointing sand
• Edging restraints & spikes

Pro safety tip: Call 811 a few days before you dig so the utility company can mark buried lines. It’s free and required in most states.

The first step in our “How to Build a Paver Walkway” guide is planning. Start by sketching your walkway on paper, including curves and width (does 36 in. feel spacious? Or do you prefer 48 in. so two people can walk side-by-side?)

Once you’re done, transfer the design outdoors. You will need a garden hose or marking paint. Keep turns gentle, since tight “S” curves require more pavers and cuts (it’s extra work you seriously don’t need). Measure the total square footage to know how much base, sand, and pavers to buy (we recommend adding 10% for mistakes and future repairs).

Don’t forget drainage. Plan a gentle slope, preferably around ⅛ in. per foot, away from the property so water never pools against the foundation.

If you’re replacing, make sure to remove your old walkway thoroughly before beginning. For excavation, a depth of 6-8 in. plus the thickness of your paver is the best course of action. This means that if you have a 2-in.-thick paver, you will need to excavate 6 in. for the base, 1 in. for the bedding sand, and 2 in. for the paver, making it 9 in. total below finished grade.

Be careful of sloped walls, as they let the base material migrate. To avoid this, square up the sides with a spade so the trench has vertical walls. In the case you hit soft or soggy soil, dig an extra couple of inches and replace it with a compactable base.

Tip: Toss soil onto a tarp. You’ll refill low spots elsewhere in the yard instead of leaving a mound on your lawn.

Your DIY paver walkway cannot be simply laid down on the ground. You will need to spread a gravel base or limestone screening in 2 in. lifts. After each lift, compact thoroughly with a hand tamper or, even better, a rented plate compactor.

This step honestly takes the most time, but cutting corners causes some walkway results to settle or heave. Remember to work to your string lines so the base follows the ⅛ in.-per-foot pitch you require for drainage.

When you’re within an inch of final height, add bedding sand or stone dust, then drag a 2 x 4 across two screed pipes to create a perfectly level (or gently pitched) surface. Remove the pipes and fill the voids.

A well-compacted, laser-flat base is 80% of the job. Get it right, and the rest will be a breeze.

Now, the fun part of how to lay a paver walkway: actually installing the pavers. Our technicians strongly recommend starting at a straight edge, whether that’s your house, driveway, or a fixed border, so the pattern stays square.

Lay the first paver, checking level side-to-side and front-to-back. Do not slide each stone, that will pull the bedding sand into the joints. Instead, tap each stone with a rubber mallet. And keep joint spacing consistent as much as possible, although many modern concrete pavers include built-in bumpers that make this foolproof.

Finally, to avoid standing on screened sand, work in small sections to remain on the installed stones. As you go, keep an eye on lines with a string or a long level. Tiny corrections during this process prevent huge headaches later.

You’re almost done with our “How to Install a Paver Walkway” guide! Sweep paver sand over the walkway, filling joints completely. Then, hold the nozzle of a garden hose in the shower setting and mist the surface until joints are damp, but not flooded.

The polymers lock overnight, creating a hard, weed-resistant joint. The final step is to walk the path and tap any high spots down with the mallet, or lift low stones and add a pinch of sand. That’d be all! You just built a professional-looking paver walkway that will amaze your neighbors and visitors alike, without investing thousands in it!

What if you want to add steps to your DIY paver walkway, or if your yard slopes more than 6 in. over the length of the path? Well, here’s how you can approach the task to make your pathway safer and reduce erosion:

1. Measure the grade change with a level and string. Every 6–7 in. of vertical difference usually calls for one riser.
2. Excavate a flat terrace equal to two paver lengths deep and the full width of the path.
3. Set a treated-lumber or concrete block riser at the downhill edge, level and square. Backfill and compact behind it.
4. Continue the base/sand/paver layers on the uphill side of the riser, treating the new terrace just like the rest of the walkway.

For multiple steps, repeat the process, stair-stepping up or down the slope. The result is a gently cascading path that feels natural and elegant instead of a steep ramp.